Kalna Rajbari Complex, Ambika Kalna
An amazing Temple Complex
Ambika Kalna (or simply Kalna) is located 82 km from Kolkata (Howrah) on the Bandel – Katwa line. Located on the west bank of the Bhagirathi, Ambika Kalna once flourished as a prosperous port town.
It reached it’s pinnacle of glory during the late 18th century under the patronage of the Maharajas of Bardhaman, who built several magnificent temples with intricate terracotta ornamentation.
The maritime trade has long stopped and Kalna has lost the status of a flourishing port city, but the temples are still there reminding one of Ambika Kalna’s glorious past.
Naba Kailash Complex, consisting of 108 Shiva Temples, arranged in to concentric circles is the prime attraction of Ambika Kalna.
Just opposite the Naba Kailash Complex is the Rajbari Complex (or Palace Complex) consisting of a series of temples and other structures built over a period of more than a hundred years.
Located at the left of the entrance the Pratapeswar Temple (or Pratapeshwar Temple) greats visitors to the Rajbari Complex.
The smallest but the most ornate of the temples of the Rajbari Complex. The 1849 built temple stands on a high podium. The Pratapeswar Temple is built in rekh deul style, with curvelinear sikhara and single arched entrance.
All the four sides of the temple has rich terracotta ornamentation depicting images of gods and goddesses to scenes from the great epics. It also contains panels depicting war scenes and also scenes from day to day life.
On the left of the Pratapeswar stands a small cannon and on the right is a Ras Mancha, whose roof has long collapsed. Further down the Rajbari Complex is the Lalji Temple, which itself is located within a small walled complex.
Ras Mancha, Rajbari Complex, Kalna
Lalji Temple follows the Panchabimsati Ratna style of architecture and consists of 25 pinnacles.
There are only 5 Panchabimsati Ratna temples in West Bengal and 3 of them are located in Ambika Kalna of which 2 are in the Rajbari Complex. The other 2 are located in Sukharia (Hooghly) and Sonamukhi (Bankura).
A Panchabimsati Ratna temple consists of three stories with 3 pinnacles each at the at the 4 corner of the first storey (3 X 4 = 12). 2 pinnacles each at the 4 corners of second storey (2 X 4 = 8). 1 pinnacle each at the 4 corners of the of the third storey (1 X 4 = 4) and a central pinnacle (1). So the total comes up to 25 (12 + 8 + 4 + 1 = 25).
The 1739 built Lalji Temple is the oldest temple in the Rajbari Complex. It was built by Braja Kishori Devi, the wife of Maharaja Jagat Ram. It houses the idol of Radha – Krishna.
Unlike the traditional Panchabimsati Ratna temple the second storey of the Lalji Temple is octagonal and thus have a pinnacle each at the eight corners.
The Lalji Temple once had elaborate terracotta panels but only a hand full have survived to this day. The temple also has traces of elaborate limestone stucco ornamentation.
Just in front of the Lalji Temple is a Char – Chala (four sloped roofs) mandap, which served as a gathering platform for devotees visiting the temple. The complex also houses an interesting mountain like temple known as the Girigobardhana Temple.
A left turn from the Lalji Complex leads one past a decorative flat roofed structure and the Panchratna Temples and finally towards the Krishna Chandraji Temple, the second panchabimsati ratna temple of the Rajbari Complex.
Incidentally the third panchabimsati ratna temple, Gopalbari Temple is located outside the Rajbari Complex.
The Pancharatna Temple is not a temple with 5 pinnacles temple but a compilation of of 5 aat – chala (eight sloped roofs) temples of different size. Although each of the 5 temples follow the aat – chala style of architecture but their shapes differ from each other.
Like the Lalji temple complex the Krishna Chandraji Temple complex is housed in a separate complex and consits of several other structures including the Vijay Vidyanath Temple.
Vijay Vidyanath temple is a huge aat – chala temple located at the left of the entrance, sadly it has no terracotta ornamentation. Next to it is the towering Krishna Chandraji Temple, with its 25 pinnacles.
The Krishna Chandaraji Temple was built 1751 – 55 and has a three arched entrance on all sides. It also has a rich terracotta ornamentation in its front facade, depicting scenes from mythologies, epics and even day to day life.
BRINDABAN CHANDRA MANDIR
The stories of new words being added to the vocabulary of different languages in the world have always been interesting, but probably none of this can match the addition of the word “Borowari” in the Bengali vocabulary. “Barowari” means community, and is often used as “Borowari Durga Pujo” to signify a community Durga Pujo organized by collecting subscriptions from the members.
The word Borowari originated from Guptipara, in present day Hooghly. In 1761 (1790 by some other sources) some men were stopped from taking part in a household Durga Puja. Twelve of them formed a committee and organized the first Barowari (baro = twelve and yaar = friend) Durga Pujo. It was reported by the May 1820 issue of The Friends of India magazine, which was published from Srerampore. But sadly there are no concrete evidences of when the word “Barowari” made its entry into the Bengali dictionary.
Guptipara is a great place for Bengal sweet lovers. The most famous of these is the Gupo Sandesh, considered by many to be Bangal’s first branded sweet – meat. It is made of channa extracted from cow’s milk. Guptipara is also the birthplace of sweet maker Bhola Moira, who was famous not for sweet making skills but for his Kabi gaan (Folk Songs). The famous musical duel of Bhola Moira and the Anglo – Indian Antony Firingi, has been made immortal by Uttam Kumar’s movie Antony Firingi.
But today the primary attraction of Guptipara are its temples. Located in a single temple complex the four Vaishnava Temples.
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Chaitanya
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Brindabanchandra
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Ramchandra
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Krishnachandra Temples
offer an interesting mixture of Bengal temple architecture.
The temples were constructed in different periods with Chitanya temple being the oldest one. It was built by Bishwar Roy during mid sixteen century. Built in Jora – Bangla style the temple consists of two thatched hut shaped adjoining structure. The temple is said to contain some of Bengal’s earliest terracotta carvings but sadly they didn’t survive the test of time.
The 60 feet high Brindabanchandra Temple, built in 1810, dominates the temple complex. Although the aat – chala (eight sloped roof) temple lacks the terracotta work it is largely compensated by coloured fresco on both outer and inner the walls. The Brindabanchandra Temple is flanked on the right by Ramchandra Temple and on the left by Krishnachandra Temple.
The ek-ratna (one – pinnacled) Ramchandra Temple, was constructed in late eighteenth century by the king of Sheraphuli Harishchandra Roy, is the definitely the most elegant temple of the complex. The one storied temple crowned with an octagonal turret contains rich terracotta works on the front and southern walls of the ground floor and also on the walls of the turret. The temple contains rich teracotta works depicting war scene from Ramayana, royal processions, marine voyages and scenes from day to day life.
The Krishnachandra Temple was constructed in 1745 during the rule of Nawab Ali Vardi Khan and follows the aat – chala from of architecture. All four temples stand on elevated platforms and are inter – connected by narrow arched passageways.
Although Guptipara has the distinction of housing Bengal’s first Durga Pujo but Durga Pujo is not Guptipara’s primary festival. When it comes to festival in Guptipara the first thing that comes into mind is Guptipara’s towering and colorful chariot. Being a Vaishnav centre Rath Jaytra (Chariot Festival) is major festival and prime attraction.
The Bridabamchandra Temple hoses the idol of Jaganath, Balaram & Subhadra. On the day of the Rath Jatra the idols are carried out by the towering rath (chariot) to another temple known as Masir Bari where it is kept for 7 days. After which the journey is retraced by the rath, known as ulto rath, and the idols are brought back to the Brindabanchandra Temple.
The gigantic nine pinnacled rath is decorated with coloured festoons and banners and is fitted with wooden horses and several wooden statues. The multi wheeled rath is pulled by four thick ropes, out which one is reserved for women. A rope at the back serves as a brake. The rath is pulled through muddy & slushy ground in a wild rampage and it seems a miracle that the event goes on with a stampede. The event is heavily monitored by the police who clear the crowed to make way for the rath.
The seven day period between the rath and ulto rath is marked with a mela (fair). The mela is complete with marry go rounds and magic & circus shows, makeshift stalls sells household wares to decorative showpiece. Even today Vishnav singers perform reminding one of the glourious days of Bhola Moira & Antony Firingi. Last but not the least is the food stalls selling papad bhaja to hot jilipis. But the age old fairs is also going through the process of evolutions with egg rolls and chowmein being the most preferred food items while stunt bike rides are the new source of entertainment.
Today Guptipara is a town in the district of Hooghly in West Bengal. Located about 75 km from Calcutta, Guptipara has its own railway station on Bandel – Katwa rail line and is well connected from Howrah. A visit to Guptipara will definitely provide an insight into Bengal’s rich cultural and social life and also provide the opportunity to admire some of Bengal’s richest terracotta work.